What’s happening in product land…
We recently returned from the Functional Fabric Fair (FFF) in Portland, Oregon. I went with my friend Nadia who makes the raddest avalanche vests. We are planning to partner on fabric orders so we can avoid surcharges (which keeps prices down for you!) and make larger vendor orders (which makes our vendors happy!)
Updating the Bibs
From a brand perspective, our big tasks were finding new kickpatch materials, continually searching for the most waterproof textiles out there, and working with current vendors to improve our PVC coated fabric, on which we’ve gotten a few reports of delamination. In our efforts to find the best fabrics available, we had some great conversations with vendors doing things differently.
Regarding kickpatches, we are unhappy current durability. In addition to increasing the size of the kickpatch for future seasons, we want a fabric with more abrasion resistance and heft. We found a fabric vendor called Armortex, that specializes in protective fabrics. They supply fabric for motor sports, work wear, and fire resistant applications. They also offer lower minimums! Which is huge for a small brand like us.
Regarding delamination, we met with our current coating vendor, Wild Bear, pictured below in the photo where I am holding the bibs. We are seeing some cases of delamination at the crotch of our bibs and it is imperative we resolve this issue before we make more products. The current fabric is a running pack material and was extensively machine tested. However, can struggle in the pant application, which ironically takes a greater toll on the fabric due to excessive creasing, which is especially detrimental to PVC-coated fabrics. The bibs experience constant folding in the crotch from walking and skiing, and are exposed to moisture and heat from touring, sweating, washing, and seat heaters, which exacerbates the delamination.
Solutions discussed could be:
Removing DWR treatment, which was originally believed to increase bonding strength, is now believed to be detrimental to bonding. However, removing DWR increases susceptibility to tearing, according to our vendor.
Updating to a stretchier base fabric. The coatings are inherently stretchy and having a more dexterous fabric would absorb the “shock” from the folding and creasing.
Update to a PU or TPU coating.
Changing the fabric all together!
Potential New Fabrics
A vendor we have been chatting with suggested using a drysuit material. This is much like a traditional 3L membrane construction, but a microporous layer is added that reduces breathability by “filling in” holes where moisture escapes, preventing water from coming in through those same holes. They also have several 4L fabrics, which add a fourth layer of fleece on the backside for warmth, and would also prevent water from reaching your rear :) I have heard from several people that the most waterproof pants they have worn were insulated pants.
I met a brilliant polymer engineer at the Spunfab booth. He was so gracious with his knowledge. He validated the detriment of DWR to bonding and cautioned against PVC due to its response to folding, as we have seen. We are sad we did not meet this guy a year or two ago. He encouraged me to find multi-film materials, and use a vapor barrier. This is essentially what the drysuit material is that I discussed above. 5L fabrics are multi-film and are often used for fishing waders.
Sustainable Fabrics
As always there is a big push toward sustainability and transparency in supply chains at these fabric trade shows. This becomes more and more prevalent each year. FFF hosted a zone for sustainable fabrics, featuring businesses making this a reality, and another zone specifically for wool.
As a natural fiber, wool is a more sustainable choice than polyester or other plastic-based fabrics, and has the added advantage of staying warm while wet. Many skiers already depend on wool for high-output (sweaty) activities, and we’d love to offer a base layer product to keep you even more comfortable in our pants.
One of my favorite fabric features was the WOOL X BREWED PROTEIN. Honestly not totally sure what that means but it sounds fascinating. We love clever and inventive ways of using fabric and materials. This concept was a driving force in starting AWNING.
We also enjoyed talking with ZQ/XQRX & New Zealand Merino Company about how they are creating a new standard for wool, helping regenerative wool practices, and helping brands source wool that abides by their standards.
Next, we discovered REJU, a polyester recycling enterprise working to improve the textile system. They focus on circularity and recycling. Circularity is a commonly used term when talking about textiles and refers to the lifecycle of textiles and working to continuously reuse fibers that already exist. Vendors and brands are thinking more about what happens to their apparel and fibers once a user is “done” with the product. REJU works internationally, but in North America, they have partnered with Goodwill to recycle more textile waste. I contacted them about how to recycle some defective fabric.
Other Inspiration
One of my favorite exhibits is always the Outdoor Recreation Archive exhibit. They are part of Utah State’s Outdoor Product Design and Development (OPDD) program. They collect vintage outdoor apparel, catalogs, and document the history of outdoor apparel. Some photos of my favorite pieces are in the collage above. One jacket had a butt flap that could fold out, and another used a second row of snaps along the center front to “tighten” the fit.
And on a totally different note, I can’t believe FFF was the first time I have heard of the podcast Rock Fight! I haven’t listened yet, but I look forward to catching up on episodes. Their focus is pretty nitty gritty (acquisitions, tariffs, prices) and they are snarky. I find this refreshing because reading press releases is boring and not always that insightful. If you’re looking for some fresh perspective on the outdoor industry, you might enjoy it too :)
Of course, we spent a lot of time talking with vendors about how they plan to handle potential tariffs. We may go deeper on what we are dealing with in another post, but for now I hope you enjoyed this dive into the world of fabrics and where we could take them next!